Tag Archives: Nick Gilbert

Fume Chat: A Perfumed Podcast

I’ve only recently gotten into podcasts (late, I know) and they really help with the daily commute. A few weeks ago Thomas Dunckley (The Candy Perfume Boy) and Nick Gilbert (Fragrance Expertise) launched their very own podcast “Fume Chat“. Episodes are released every fortnight on a Sunday and there have been two so far.

The launch show “Hello World” included some of their favourites new releases and helped feed my mammoth lemming, Galop d’Hermes.  Last Sunday’s instalment was a “Battle of the Bottles” between Thomas and Nick’s picks from Comme des Garçons (I won’t spoil it by telling you who won). I did own Kyoto but this brand has been largely a mystery to me because many of the scents have similar names with numbers, which unfortunately is enough to put me off. I am now considerably less ignorant.

First and foremost, the podcasts are brilliantly entertaining but they are also guaranteed to widen your perfumery knowledge and add fragrances to your To Try list. Both Thomas and Nick are great company and this transmits perfectly across the digital airwaves. They also have an off-beat taste in fragrance which means you hear about scents you might not have heard about or explored further otherwise.

You can subscribe on iTunes via your iPhone or Soundcloud if you’re an Android user like me. Well worth a listen!

 

fumechat

 

Have you tuned in to Fume Chat? Can you recommend any other podcasts?

 

 

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A Rose By Any Other Name – Perfume Lovers London, 21st July 2016

This was the first “business as usual” PLL event hosted by Lizzie (Odette Toilette), Laurin and Callum at the October Gallery in London since taking over the group.

 

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The wonderful Nick Gilbert

 

Leading us through this rose themed evening was fragrance expert, Nick Gilbert. If you haven’t already checked out his YouTube channel Love to Smell with Pia of Volatile Fiction, you really should. Nick runs his own consultancy business and couldn’t be better placed to present us with the aromachemicals used to create rose scents along with examples of how each has been used in a particular perfume.

 

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Below is a rough reconstruction of some of the perfumed proceedings after an introduction by Lizzie.

 

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Lizzie, radiant in orange.

 

Nick: The reason I chose rose for this evening is because although there are are 300 molecules in rose absolute, there’s only 4 that humans can smell. That makes it an easy introduction to aromachemicals. The way a rose smells, whether fruity, earthy or citrusy, is all down to these molecules.

 

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Nick: Phenyl ethyl alcohol is the main constituent of most rose extracts (oils and absolutes) but it’s not the most powerful. Perfumers use it to add a fresh, petal-y effect to floral perfumes. It can also add a sense of space. It’s very gentle and not very impactful. It’s not particularly rosy, it’s more vaguely floral. It gives a naturalist impression. Paul Smith Rose exemplifies this.

Paul Smith Rose

Laurin: This is what I’d expect a rose to smell like. Nick told me they used headspace technology to recreate the scent of a rose from Paul Smith’s garden.

Nick: It’s one of the best representations of rose in perfumery.

Audience member: It has a lot of petal-y freshness and there’s some green too. It reminds me a bit of bubble bath.

 

paul smith

 

Citronellol

Nick: This particular citronellol has a pronounced geranium aspect. It’s a little like bug spray.

Rosewater, Marks and Spencer

Nick: Citronellol is used by perfumers to add an uplifting, zingy effect.

Laurin: I picked up this rosewater from the food section of M&S. I thought it would be good added to fizzy water but it was disgusting.

Nick: Rosewater is a by-product of the distillation process and is used in cookery, especially sweets. I thought it would be interesting to see if we can spot the citronellol in it.

 

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Nick and Laurin

 

Damascone (Beta)

Nick: It’s not massively present in rose but it’s very impactful. It adds a berry, sweet facet to rose perfumes. Some roses can smell like raspberries.

Audience member: It smells a bit minty.

Liz Earle Botanical Essence No.20

Nick: This has that gently fruity aspect. I’ve been spraying this one a lot ,especially in the hot weather. It’s quite smooth.

Audience member: It reminds me of those sherbet sweets, flying saucers.

Laurin: There’s a lot of pink pepper in it.

 

liz earle

Rose Oxide

Nick: A lot of people find this very unpleasant. It gets to the back of your throat.

Laurin: This is disgusting. It’s like the bottom of a rusty skip with some sludge in it.

Audience member: It’s a rose shot out of a cannon.

Nick: It has a metallic tang, it’s a post-apocalyptic rose.

Audience member: “Terminator Rose”

Audience member: Perfumer Mark Buxton used it in quite a few of his perfumes for Comme des Garcons.

 

Mad Madame, Juliette Has A Gun

Nick: You get the metallic tang of rose oxide in Mad Madame. It’s kind of a bitchy rose.

 

Juliette-Has-A-Gun-Mad-Madame-review

 

 

Geraniol

Nick: Without geraniol you wouldn’t have a rose with scent. It’s used by perfumers to create the leafy impression in rose, but not too much or you end up with geranium. It has a nice mint effect.

Audience member: It’s so green.

Nick: It’s very crisp.

Geranium pour Monsieur, Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums

Nick: Here you get the minty effect played up with peppermint. It’s like geranium toothpaste, in a great way.

Lizzie: It’s very good when it’s frosty. I love it.

geranium pour monsieur

 

Ionone (Alpha)

Nick: This is more violet-y with a green effect. It’s used at high dose in YSL’s Paris. It’s quite powerful – you only need to use a little to get a violet-y rose. Ionones were discovered in the late 19th century and so violet fragrances became wildly popular at that time.

Lizzie: There were so many violet scents, perfumers usually had more than one in their line.

Nick: Penhaligon’s had four.

Lizzie: Violet was the oud of its day. [Much laughter]

Lipstick Rose

Nick: Lipstick Rose is the example I’ve chosen for a violet rose. It’s very traditionally French.

Audience member: It reminds me of my grandmother’s lipstick.

Audience member: It reminds me of Shalimar.

Nick: It does have a vanillic undertone.

lipstick rose

 

This concluded the guided sniff-along portion of the evening. As usual we were then free to try a wide variety of rose fragrances and request a sample of our favourite. We were very helpfully given a list of those available.

 

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I was so pleased Nick decided to talk us through some aromachemicals because it’s topic I know very little about and I found it extremely interesting. I hope there will future talks on this subject.

Huge thanks to Lizzie, Laurin and Callum for keeping the group going and continuing the fragrant fun. I’m really looking forward to seeing where we go from here.

 

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Are you a fan of any of these rose fragrances? Are you interested in aromachemicals?

 

 

 

 

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Love to Smell – A Must Watch

In these “interesting times” it’s a relief to be able to watch something that will transport you to a joyous place of fragrant fun. Nick of Nick Gilbert- Fragrance Expertise and Pia of Volatile Fiction were already much-loved perfume friends and bloggers but in May this year they came together to form their own YouTube channel, Love to Smell.

This is like having two of your favourite superheroes unite to fight a common evil, only in this case it’s to, er, have a giggle reviewing perfumes on camera – what could be better?!

Nick and Pia bounce off each other really well and are clearly enjoying themselves (which is wonderfully contagious) but the fact is, they know their stuff. Both have a passion for science and work in the industry so their opinions are informed by their experience on both sides of the supplier/consumer divide.

There is a new Love to Smell video released every Friday and the one below is from last week.

Watch, like, subscribe and enjoy!

 

 

Do you follow Love to Smell? Are you generally fond of Vloggers?

 

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