First I should say that this post contains no perfume. I packed just one decant of Cuir de Russie for the trip but it felt like too much sensory overload first thing in the morning. We only walked into one perfumerie but I wasn’t in the mood for testing anything and I’m not sure Portia was either.
I thought I’d love Venice but it totally surpassed even my high expectations. I totally fell over heels in love with the place. Looking at the buildings from the water buses was like staring back in time. I’ve never been anywhere with such a vivid sense of history.
Of course I knew the city was on the water but it was seeing a police boat speeding along the waterways with its siren blaring that made it really hit home how these canals are its streets. It’s mainly backstreets, alleyways and squares apart from that. It’s like walking through a beautiful maze. Anywhere else I’d feel uneasy but even late at night I felt safe and it was surprisingly clean considering the number of visitors.
We arrived on Monday afternoon and checked-in at the gorgeous and ideally located Hotel Boscolo Bellini. Soon we headed off to St. Mark’s Square which is something else in real life. Television and photographs just don’t do it justice. Even at night and/or in the rain, it is stunning. We went inside St. Mark’s Basilica at one end of the square which is a majestic Italo-Byzantine cathedral.We then had tea at a place in the colonnades that Portia and Jin had been to before,. Caffe Florian dates back to 1720 and while rather steamy that night, was a great experience. The tea was fit for a (drag) queen as you can see. On Day 2 poorly Jin needed some rest, so Portia, Anna Maria and I went back to St. Mark’s Square to visit the Doge’s Palace. This was fantastic and as usual the audio guide really helped get the most out of it. Anna Maria and I crossed the Bridge of Sighs into the prison where we promptly got lost, leading us to agree that even if you managed the impossible and escaped from your cell, you’d never find the exit. One room that took our breath away was the Chamber of the Great Council which is apparently the longest room in Europe without pillars. They only managed to construct it because of their immense expertise at ship building.
Across the south side of St. Mark’s Square was the Museo Correr which was once the House of Hapsburg, so this was great to see after experiencing the Hofburg in Vienna last year. After viewing the state apartments, it was amazing to see the rooms crammed with artefacts up to the 16th century, very few of which were behind glass, roped off or with someone watching over them. It was as if Venice has more treasures than it knows what to do with.
In the afternoon we went with Jin to the Rialto bridge, which I didn’t actually realise had shops on it. Just over one side was Rialto 79, a little shop selling Murano glass jewellery where I picked up a small black and silver pendant. Portia got some striking earrings made from 1950s green Murano glass, while Anna Maria got a bracelet made to her specification right there and then.Thanks to recommendations from Antonio Gardoni and Lady Jane Grey, after dinner we went to Harry’s Bar which opened in 1931. We timed it just right because there was no one at the counter when we arrived. The Bar was frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote, Orson Welles and Charlie Chaplin. It was where the Bellini was invented, so although I don’t normally drink wine, it had to be done.
The dapper barman gave us his spiel and we lapped it up. I love how everything has been kept the same, even down to where the bottles are positioned on the shelves. I must say, that Bellini was delicious and went down incredibly easily. The whole experience had us buzzing.On our last full day we took the water bus out across the lagoon to the island of Murano. We eventually found the shop owned by the family of the hotel receptionist, Patrick. His borther made a glass ladybird (ladybug in the US) while we watched and his mother showed us some of her own creations in their shop next door.
Anna Maria bought a striking black glass ring while Portia picked up some earrings and a necklace. I settled on what Portia described as “The Bluebird of Happiness” which is exactly why I picked it .
In the afternoon we went to see the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and oh my goodness did this blow me away. So much fabulous art packed into one space, inside the beautiful palazzo and outside in the garden. You name a great modern artist and chances are they are represented at the Collection. From Picasso, Paul Klee, Kandinsky and Francis Bacon to Rothko, Jasper Johns, Jackson Pollock and Magritte.
Portia had said how she was told off for blowing on the Alexander Calder mobile during a previous visit so I was surprised to see her do it again AND get told off again. Undeterred she did it again when we found another one and I must say that seeing it swing into action really made it come alive. In the future, I need to think “What Would Portia Do?” and do it. That shouldn’t get me into too much trouble.
We had our last supper at a place recommended to us by staff at the hotel and id didn’t disappoint. Anna Maria has Italian heritage so went for Baccala done three ways, Portia and I both had Lasagne and Jin went for Spaghetti Bolognese. We shared a tiramisu and cheesecake was a very good decision on our part. After some shopping for family and friends back home, we ended our day and our truly wonderful time in Venice.
Heartfelt thanks to the wonderful Portia, gentleman Jin and the awesome Anna Maria for letting me tag along on this leg of their European tour.
It was a trip I will never forget.
26 responses to “Venice Photo Essay”
What a lot you packed into the time – I was sure you would have an absolute blast with that crew, and so it proved! How nice that you all bought glass items as a memento of the trip, as well as having this great set of photos. Also, I am so happy you had a Bellini. I hope it will prove to be a gateway drink to wine and beyond, hehe. Was amused at Portia’s naughty manoeuvre, blowing on that mobile. But what is the point of a still one, after all? 😉
It was worth getting up early to pack so much in. Yes, you couldn’t fail to have a blast with Portia’s crew.
I really debated about that Bellini but it would have been silly to have anything else. As it was, it worrying easy to drink and not acidic at all. I think they added a good amount of peach puree which helped!
Totally agree about the mobiles. It’s daft.
You have captured the essence of Venice and our quad of friends beautifully! Thank you Tara! Venice is a historical place, where people from all over the world can create further history, memories and friendships.
Here’s to further histories and memoriesTara!
I wore coco mademoiselle and Chanel no5 during this time, at Harry’s Bar and Palazzo Ducale, two of my favourite frags in two of my new memories.
It is a trip I will never forget.
Anna Maria, we will always have Venice…and that daggy cafe 🙂
Thanks so much for sharing what you wore. Those will create beautiful scent memories for you when you go back home. Brilliant.
What fun! You were the perfect addition to our traveling circus and we miss you sorely. At every turn in Florence we say Tara would LOVE this.
Great post, you’ve captured our adventures masterfully.
This Calder mobiles are built to be moving works of art. Those asswipes don’t even understand the magic.
Ha! Love “travelling circus”, Portia. You are the perfect ringleader. You make sure everyone has the time of their life and we are grateful for it.
I’m so excited that the Alexander Calder exhibit is on at Tate Modern until 3rd April. I will go, take a pic and post it for you. Not sure if I’ll have the guts to blow on one but we’ll see 🙂
Ha! Take Vanessa with you and blow them all.
I’d love to 🙂
I love Venice. I’ve been several times but not to the Guggenheim. I’m embarrassed. We’ll go this year. Wonderful account. Being on the road with Portia’s Crew is the best and we need to do it together. Which could be sooner than you think. Ciao Bella. ❤️
Oh you’ve been several times? Wonderful. I need to go back when it’s warmer and I can stuff myself with gelato.
Yes, I need you to be part of the crew next time.
What a lovely photo essay, Tara! I’ve got to visit Venice! Love the cute bluebird; a perfect memento for the happiness filled trip. 🙂 Reading through your account made me feel so happy too!
You have to go, Yukiko! You’ll fall instantly in love with the place, as I did.
I’m happy you love the bluebird. I adore it! It really is the perfect momento.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Loved to read about your trip and see how much you enjoyed it.
Thanks, Esperanza. I know it was perfume-free but a couple of people said they were looking forward to hearing about the trip so I thought I’d write it up.
Amazing! Thank you for sharing, it sounds like you all had the greatest of times. 😀
Thanks, Ines, we really did! I’m very grateful.
Glad you enjoyed it even with the absence of scent.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wonderful pictures, thanks for sharing, Tara!
I was in Venice about 15 years ago and it looks like nothing has changed, fantastico!
The Guggenheim Collection is so wonderful but what I remember most vividly is the animal cemetery in her pretty little garden, when I read the monument dedicated to her cats I thought that the poor Peggy has lost all her children before I realized that’s for her cats and dogs.
Have a nice weekend!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Great to see you, Anka!
I wouldn’t be surprised if nothing changed. I think Venetians like it that way and so do I 🙂
I know what you mean about all Peggy’s pets being buried with her and the names on the plaque! I wish I took a photo of that.
Even if I’ve only been to Venice once and a looong time ago at that, it’s a city I truly and vividly remember, so I’m not surprised that you fell head over heals.
Thank you for sharing, one can see how happy you all look 🙂
I love the Madonna association, especially as my first thought when I think of Venice is Daphne du Maurier’s short story ‘Don’t look now’ Scary stuff! And on a musical note; Monteverdi’s Vespro bella beata vergine in st Marks.
Love the bird too.
I know exactly what you mean because it’s 20 years since I visited Rome yet the impression it made on me was such that it feels like 2 years ago.
Your musical association with Venice is a tad more high brow than ours 😉
Glad you love my bluebird. It makes me happy.
What a fun trip you had! Thank you for sharing it with us (I love looking at pictures!)
Even though I’ve never been to Venice, every time I see any pictures of it I feel like I have (caution: blasphemy ahead 😉 ): the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas has recreated extremely realistically many famous parts of Venice – at least the way it looks on pictures! But I hope one day to see it with my own eyes.
Pleased you like the post. It was a last minute thing. I tried to share a few pics that weren’t on Facebook.
I’m now very intrigued about the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas! It’s funny, my sister said something similar about the Venice recreation in Florida. Not sure if she was referring to a hotel or Epcot.
I hope you come back to Europe before too long.
Tara – what an amazing fun filled trip you had. I am so happy that you were able to join them in Venice. I really must get myself down there. Thank you for the stunning photo essay- it looks magical. Sandra xo
Sandra, you really must go! It’s amazing and there’s nowhere like it.
I am so happy I joined them too. What a special time.
Pingback: Barcelona – Photo Essay | A Bottled Rose