Tag Archives: Cardamom
ELEGANCE, POISE AND POLISH: HERMÈS ESSENCE DE PARFUMS 2018
Filed under Perfume Reviews
Fragranced Organic Teas by Aftelier Perfumes
After I shared a surprisingly popular post about tea a couple of weeks ago, the wonderful indie perfumer Mandy Aftel kindly sent me samples from her own tea collection. I was thrilled and had a fine time trying each one.
I drank them without milk and without sugar (on my first cup at least) to get the true taste. All four teas are organic and use edible essential oils and absolutes on a base of premium tea leaves. Depending on what method of infusion you use, on the first steeping you can watch the leaves unfurl in the water. You can also re-infuse them several times, which is great. Below are my impressions of each variety.Oolong Tea Rose & Ginger
This organic Tieguanyin oolong tea from Taiwan is infused with Mandy’s Chef Essences of Turkish Rose and Fresh Ginger. I thought I didn’t like floral teas, however either rose is an exception or this tea is so subtly flavoured/scented it’s a joy. I was also concerned the ginger might be overpowering but it added a lovely gingerbread background warmth. I think I might struggle with straight-up oolong but this combination of flavours gives it body and make it work beautifully for me. Now I’m looking forward to trying more rose flavoured teas.
Black Tea Cardamom & Orange
I love the scent of black tea, cardamom and orange so it’s no surprise that this turned out to be a hit with me. The cardamom comes through more than the orange but it’s a gentle backnote to the tea itself which is full, rounded and satisfying in the way black tea usually is for me. According to the website this is “Organic Red Pearls Black Tea, a rare tea from Fujian, is fully-oxidized Mao Feng tea leaves that have been rolled into small black pearls. They are then pan-fired where they develop a burnished sheen, toasty caramel-like aroma, and spicy, assertive — yet wonderfully sweet — flavor.”
Oolong Tea Frankincense GABA
An incense tea! I love incense so this was a novel and fun experience for me. The scent is fantastically resinous, rather than smoky and it’s the fullest oolong tea I can imagine. The oolong tea from Taiwan has fruit and honey notes and is infused with hojary incense. GABA is a natural enzyme that calms and relaxes which is a definite plus. You’d think it might feel strange drinking incense but doesn’t. It’s perfect for de-stressing after work on a cold winter’s evening.
Aged Pu’erh in Tangerine Peel
Until late last year I hadn’t even heard of Pu’erh. It’s actually a fermented tea from Yunnan, China. Here, the leaves are packed into the rind of a whole tangerine.and aged for four years. They take on the flavour of the tangerine and the citrus is enhanced further by the addition of Mandy’s Yellow Mandarin Chef’s Essence. I found the unique scent very comforting. It’s earthy and rubbery and laced delicately with citrus. Perhaps surprisingly, this tea is really refreshing and I found it easy to drink without sugar, which is rare. I also love that it comes in the tangerine peel.
Each tea composition is expertly balanced with essences and absolutes that complement and enhance the leaves; never overwhelming them. They are clearly created with the same care and artistry as the Aftelier perfumes. They’ve brought home to me just how closely smell and taste are connected and how making a cup of tea can become, in Mandy’s own words, “a time-stopping pleasure” during a demanding day.
Do you like the sound of any of Mandy’s teas? Are there any scented teas you currently enjoy?
Filed under Food & Drink
Spice World: The Meetup – Perfume Lovers London, 24th November
We were greeted by a spice themed soundtrack at the October Gallery last Thursday with tracks from Salt-N-Pepa and of course, The Spice Girls. Our fragrant leader Odette Toilette/Lizzie is nearing her due date so we were in the capable hands of Laurin and Callum. As you will see from the abbreviated sequence of events below, they also have a great way with words.
Intoxicated, By Kilian
Laurin: Intoxicated is part of the Addictive State of Mind collection from By Kilian which features three fragrances based around a substance that can be addictive: coffee, tobacco and weed.
Callum: Intoxicated is supposed to evoke Turkish coffee and although that is usually teeth rottingly sweet, this has dark bitter spices. The green, bracing note of cardamom is particularly noticeable.
Laurin: I find it dry.
Audience Member: I get some lavender, similar to A*Men.
Callum: It’s a good example of a very strong cardamom note.
Audience Member: It’s getting sweeter with time.
Lumiére Blanche, Olfactive Studio
Callum: Each fragrance by Olfactive Studio is inspired by a photograph. Lumiére Blanche is the opposite of Intoxicated. Here the cardamom is in a setting which is really creamy and it’s much easier to wear.
Audience Member: I’m picking up anise and mint.
Laurin: I think it’s like a milky drink at bedtime; like spicy Horlicks.
Callum: Does anyone think it’s like the photo? It has the bright white feel.
Audience Member: It reminds me of the sea.
Audience Member: It reminds me of Lovehearts. There’s something sherbet-y.
Classique EdT, Jean Paul Gaultier
Laurin: I get lots of orange blossom and ylang ylang from Classique but once I found out there was was ginger in it, it became a lot more noticeable. When I smell it, I picture ginger root complete with its hairy bark.
Callum: I used to wear it a lot in my teens. Over time the shape of the bottle has changed. It now has a bigger derrière and smaller breasts – The Kim Kardashian Effect.
Laurin: I’d put it in the bombshell category along with Fracas.
Callum: It’s huge. Do we like it?
General murmurs of “No”.
Audience Member: It’s very dated.
The Smell of Freedom, Gorilla Perfumes
Callum: This is a sunny ginger fragrance.
Laurin: I always think it’s like when you’re grating ginger and some of the juice runs down your hand.
Holly from LUSH: This is a triptych of a perfume. It’s a combination of three other perfumes about inspirational people, so it has a lot of notes.
Laurin: I get more lemongrass as it goes along.
Callum: It’s the opposite of Classique. It feels more stripped back.
Audience Member: It’s quite earthy.
Love, By Kilian
Callum: One of my favourite vanillas is the one by Mona di Orio but most are very sweet so I thought I should pick one which is representative of that. Love is pink, frilly knickers. It’s bright and sickly but amazing. It’s softened by orange blossom. It’s crazy sweet.
Laurin: I always think vanilla is too needy. You’d break up with it and it would still come round to your house and knock on the door. I like this one though because there’s something a bit scratchy about it.
Audience Member: It’s like raw cookie dough.
Laurin: This is one of my favourite fragrances of all time. It’s leather, petrol station forecourts and gimp masks. It’s a good example of an edgy fragrance that uses vanilla to make it more wearable. The perfumer is Annick Menardo and she’s very good at using vanilla in compositions such as this, Hypnotic Poison by Dior and Morn to Dusk by Eau d’Italie.
Black wouldn’t get past a focus group these days. It’s Resting Bitch Face in a bottle. It’d slit your throat if you rubbed it up the wrong way. I admire anyone who bought it when it first came out. People say it’s discontinued but you can still get it on Amazon. It also comes in this great bottle shaped like a tyre.
Esprit du Tigre, Heeley
Callum: All Heeley’s fragrances are very bold in that they have a very clear idea. This is centred around the idea of Tiger Balm. It features a very pure use of clove; tarry, methylated and smoky.
Would you wear it?
Generally well liked and quite a few people would wear it except for those with memories of Tiger Balm.
Jungle L’Elephant, Kenzo
Laurin: I tried this at Lizzie’s house recently and took the bottle home with me. It’s a more rounded use of clove. It’s a Christmas pudding in a marshmallow. It has a lot of warmth. I picture a helix of clove and cardamom. There’s a huge amount of plum and cedarwood in there too.
It was done by Dominique Ropion who is very good at doing huge perfumes which are very fine-tuned (Portrait of a Lady, Carnal Flower). Lizzie isn’t getting her bottle back.
Hellstone, Gorilla Perfumes
Laurin: I read that cumin is associated with faithfulness. It can stop chickens and lovers from straying, apparently. Hellstone is rounded and has a little of that body sweat cumin but it’s also peaty and has a bit of whisky. I was thinking earlier it would be perfect for the Central Line at rush hour.
Holly from LUSH: A lot of men like to wear it in their beards.
Callum: I like it the more I wear it – the more the terror fades away.
Audience Member: It smells a bit like old books.
Fareb, Huitième Art Collection
Callum: Fareb makes me think of the desert and cola. It’s dry but has a fizziness to it.
Laurin: It’s more foody. Customers at Les Senteurs used to stay they couldn’t wear it because it reminded them of their mother’s cooking.
Callum: It’s sweeter than Hellstone.
Audience Member: It’s brighter.
Callum: It’s doesn’t have the dark, peaty aspect of Hellstone.
This one was generally approved of by the room and preferred to Hellstone. Overall Fareb and Black seemed to be the hits of the evening.
Do you like spicy fragrances? Which are your favourites?
Filed under Perfume Events