Le Lion de Chanel – Les Exclusifs de Chanel

By Val the Cookie Queen

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, labdanum, amber, vanilla, patchouli, sandalwood, musk.


Le Lion de Chanel opens with an eruption of bergamot and aldehdydic leather. It is exquisite. The love child of Shalimar Parfum, father unknown.

We do know the perfumer is Oliver Polge.

The construction seems to be built around a centre of cool church incense, although not mentioned in the official note list. To my nose the incense remains throughout the entire composition allowing it to retain a continued coolness and elegance in the heart of what is an oriental amber.

Not a dark and sticky amber, and not the choke-you-to-death flat, unpleasant amber beloved by so many niche perfumers. This is graceful and elegant.

The base is rich and shimmers with light. There is a soft leather presence, a sandalwood richness; the animalic labdanum assures the sensuality, and a dry vanilla which, like the incense, envelops the wearer from the first moments, makes this an absolutely stunning piece of work.

Worldwide launch January 2021.

A limited release in the Middle East, May 2020.


Disclaimer. I got my bottle from the friend of a friend’s friend, whose Uncle’s dog died. I paid hard cash for it.


Filed under Perfume Reviews

36 responses to “Le Lion de Chanel – Les Exclusifs de Chanel

  1. I am really looking forward to this one. Lucky you. I will have to wait seven more months to even smell it.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. ariane prussner

    Oh my oh my, desperate to try this, at least time flies by and before we know it winter will be upon us.*This one may change people’s tune about poor Olivier Polge, who I think has done well, esp. with 1957 which I adore, but even Gabrielle isn’t half as bad as they make it out to be- okay the butchering of the edts of the Exclusifs line is a bit unforgivable, but anyway thanks for the review which was great as always and I have been enjoying your reports from lockdown Vienna.Oh how I wish I was there rather than the UK where culture is being thrown under a bus as we speak…
    *”123, im Sauseschritt eilt die Zeit…!”

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hello Ariane! Welcome to the madhouse. I could not agree more. This will put Polge on the map in his own right. Although 1957 might have/should have done that. It is a fabulous perfume and one that I have used has a bottle of. It is absolutely beyond me as to why Chanel wanted to change all of the original Exclusifs. Plus imagine that poor guy having to change all of them at the same time. Let me know when you are going to be in Vienna and we can meet up! I am actually in the Salzkammergut, and nearer to Salzburg but hey it is all Austria! I travel anywhere for perfume meet ups! Servus. 😉 Drop by again soon. xxxxx


      • ariane prussner

        I’d love to go to the Salzkammergut and meet up!!
        I have so loved reading everyone’s comments here, but made the lemming go up a few notches…
        Off topic,since we agree on 1957, do you think it would be safe for me to blind buy Iunx Talc ( I remember your glowing review), as I have heard a terrible rumour Giacobetti might close up shop?

        Liked by 1 person

        • Yes, IUNX is closing. ( I do not wanna push anyone to anything!) I love Talc, it is quite exquisite. I would definitely say a blind buy of the travel size, 20ml, is worth a shot, yeah. You can email them –


          And ask. There are other stores that carry the line but I ordered my IUNX perfumes straight from them. I always wanted one of the huge police truncheon bottles, but guess that is not gonna happen. Keep me posted.


  3. Yay Val!
    So glad it’s this beautiful on you.
    I love the lasting power and the crunchy, brittle vanilla rich amber in the base tempered perfectly by the soft animal growl of the labdanum.
    Interesting that incense is the star player for you, not so much for me.
    The day a few of us originally tried it though, everyone’s experience was different. Apart enough that we all noticed.
    Portia xx

    Liked by 1 person

    • Austra – Sydney – Dubai – Austria. I have yet to meet an addict who cannot get their hit when desperate enough. Yeah – it is really beautiful. An amber in the Exclusifs is just perfect. I think that Polge needed somewhere to put the incense that he took out of Coromandel. 🙂 Love you and thanks a million. xxxxx


  4. I’m glad you like it! Though, it feels like you skimmed on the story of getting it 😉 I’m especially concerned about the dog’s fate.

    Since I’m a Chanel fan, it pleases me enormously that Chanel produces perfumes we enjoy and talk about.

    Liked by 1 person

    • The dog has been replaced by a cat. Stay tuned for Part II next week Undina, where I will share the story of how I nearly had to assassinate the post office assistant, but sent my husband instead. Oh yes I too love Chanel. ❤


  5. matty1649

    This sounds fab. I’m very partial to Amber

    Liked by 1 person

    • Interestingly enough, I am not partial to amber, although I have tried off and on for years. I have a bottle of Mitzah, which when in the right mood I will drown myself in, and then I love it. But the Le Lion is a much airier and drier amber, an amber that does not stain the skin for a week. I am sure you would love it. ❤


  6. Tara C

    Yay for a successful blind buy! Can’t wait to sniff it. Rumour says September in Canada but I’m betting January is more likely.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hi there TaraC! As far as I have been told it will be worldwide in January and not before. Just saying. I mean Chanel did not actually call me. Yet. It was a well researched blind buy, but yeah, still good that it turned out so well. You back out on your bike regular now? xxx


      • Tara C

        Oh yeah! Bike season is in full swing here. With the pandemic, no one wants to take public transit so there was a run on bike stores, everybody ran out of stock, it was crazy. I already had one fortunately. 🙂


  7. Now I understand why you said hard lemmings. 😁 Love the name and love the idea, even with incense.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Thanks so much for giving us an idea of what to expect from Le Lion, Val.
    Though I’m starting to wonder if this is going to be one of those perfumes that people perceive differently. Can’t wait to see (smell) for myself.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. MMKinPA

    The positive for the launch delay for me is that my year-long no-buy will be over. Going on the list to try for sure!

    Liked by 1 person

    • My only buy this year, so far. I have nothing else planned either. And I got hold of this. because I was in the right place at the right time with the right help from an Aussie drag artist. ❤ xxx


  10. Thank you for the review and your impressions Val! I am so very much looking forward to purchasing this bottle, no doubt in my mind after reading your review. xx

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hi there Kathleen! Something to look forward to. It will be a fantastic start to 2021. And if my husband keeps stealing mine I will need another bottle. Sheesh. The dude never wears perfume but thinks this is the best thing ever. xxxx


      • That is a high compliment from a non-perfume wearer!
        Something to look forward to for 2021! So happy to hear you both love Le Lion, I will be blind-buying when available with full confidence I will love it as well. xx


  11. bonkersvanessa

    I like the sound of Le Lion very much, as long as the musk is muted. Everything else has my name on it! And I don’t mind at all that its parentage is fuzzy. 😉

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Sounds good, I hope I get to try it

    Liked by 1 person

  13. Lady Jane Grey

    I envy you for having such friends with dogs 😘
    Another 7 months to go… (it sounds like a blind buy)

    Liked by 1 person

  14. Can’t wait to try this one when it eventually arrives in South Africa in 2021. Definitely something to look forward to from your great review.

    Liked by 1 person

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