Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Birch, Cassie, Labdanum, Vanilla and Oakmoss
I only drift off easily at night these days when listening to recordings of turbulent weather, such as squally winds, heavy rain or a rumbling thunderstorm. It may seem odd that these restless sounds soothe me to sleep, but I find something calming about the wildness of nature when I’m safe inside. Wearing Hyde, the new EdP release by indie perfumer Hiram Green, gives me the same feeling.
The fragrance opens a little medicinal and those citrus top notes don’t hang around as we leap headlong into the warming arms of leather.
Most fragrances in this category smell like molten tar but this is much more of a bonfire on the breeze. It has that quality of smoke in the air that regularly occurs here in autumn/winter, which I love and look forward to at the end of every summer.
Hyde is not as heavy as many leathers. It possesses all of the atmosphere with only half of the weight. It doesn’t have that same level of dense meatiness you often find in similarly themed scents either. It has real presence but exhibits a lightness of touch, and it’s that sinuousness in a normally rugged style, that really captivates me.
There is a savoury and moreish aspect to Hyde, although it’s not in the least bit edible. It’s also considerably more parched than a lot of birch leather fragrances, with the feel of charred wood rather than sticky tar. I picture it as deepest brown rather than inky black.
I find myself breathing it in deeply. I like the burnt facet that hits the back of my throat at the end of the inhale. Bois d’Ascese by Naomi Goodsir is a conflagration but Hyde is a smouldering slow burn. Where Cuir de Lancôme is plush, Hyde is unworldly. The fragrance wraps itself like smoke rings around the body and the sense of intimacy is alluring. The lasting power – particularly for a natural perfume – is superb.
The soft malt vanilla in the drydown can only be enjoyed through the lingering wisps of woodsmoke and I like it all the more for that. In common with a lot of base-heavy fragrances, Hyde is best experienced at one remove.
I’ve been thinking about how, when the shadows lengthen or the internal darkness falls, it makes sense to step down a couple of gears to ease the pressure. It’s time to take some respite from the rat-race, either with your loved ones or alone. Hyde is the perfect perfume to hibernate with. It is as reassuring as it is addictive and would make a wonderful shared scent.
It is a must-try if you like burning/smoky scents. It’s not going to appeal to everyone but the best fragrances often don’t. Hyde isn’t trying to please the crowd. It walks its own path, leaving a trail of smoking footprints scorched into the moss-covered earth.
How do you feel about smoky perfumes? Will you be seeking out Hyde?
A Bottled Rose 
Great to read another charming review of Hyde – we share feeling of liking this one 🙂
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Good to hear!
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Yes definitely this sounds amazing I’d love a perfume that echoes soft woodsmoke. Do you know where to get samples from in the U.K.?
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Hi Hayley
It’s just like a crackling bonfire. I don’t think you can get sanples in the U.K. I’m afraid.
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You have me panting for some Tara.
Portia x
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It’s so striking, Portia x
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This may not be for me, preferring plush leather scents as you so aptly call Cuir de Lancome!, but I loved your haunting review. Hibernation scents sound like an excellent category.
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Thanks, V. Yes, I should do a round up of hibernation scents one autumn!
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I haven‘t tried Hyde (yet), but the review is wonderful ! I might like it…
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Thanks LJG. I hope so!
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LJG – I can bring you some if we manage to meet up sometime! Hugs. xxxxxxx
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Would be nice… Now we „ only“ need to find the time…
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Hi Tara – you know I love it. Bottle purchase No3 for 2018. And I am done. It is poky stuff though and will be a spray-on-the-back-of-the neck scent for me. Cannot wait. It is great when we both like the same scent huh? Fab review. xxxxx
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I bought 4 bottles from Portia this year and I think that was my lot. I like spraying perfume on the back of my neck more and more these days.
Yes, always good when we are of a like mind 🙂
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I spray mostly on the back of my neck. I reckon the perfume is much more enjoyable when not killing with fumes rising from our throat. Unless it is pure perfume, dabbed, or oils. And everyone else smells it better too. Hmmmmm. Might be a post in that. 😀 xxx
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It’s the way to go. Do it.
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I’m not sure if I would like Hyde since smoky perfumes are hit or miss for me, but I really look forward to trying it. Regardless, you did such a convincing review! It’s a pleasure to read it on its own (and I really-really like the hibernation idea 😉 – maybe over a short NY break…)
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I really appreciate that Undina!
I definitely recommend some hibernation time over the holidays. I’m doing that all the way.
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Hibernating is fine by me, though by the amount of sleep I need at the moment, it seems I kind of *am* hibernating, only without ‘Hyde’. Oh, and I too do love wild weather outside, when I’m all comfortable on the inside looking out.
Another Hiram Green which sounds rather intriguing. I never know with smoky, but charred does sound like a kind of smoky I would like, and as I’m all for indie and natural at the moment I might even ( eventually) get myself some samples.
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Hi Asali,
If you like the smell of a bonfire you’ll like Hyde.
I normally need a ton of sleep but in my anxious state at the moment I’m averaging 5-6 hours a night and it’s killing me! Can’t wait till the move is over and I can sleep the clock round over the holidays.
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