Art de Parfum launched this year with five fragrances which aim to be soulful, bold and luxurious. Although their style intends to reflect French sophistication, they are actually a UK based niche brand. Here are my impressions of all five.
Gin & Tonic Cologne
Notes: Juniper berries, grapefruit, lemon zest, cucumber, gin, ambergris, cedar, vetiver, white musk and incense.
I have noticed a certain fondness for gin among my perfume pals and whilst I don’t drink it, I do enjoy perfumes inspired by it. in short, Gin & Tonic Cologne is a very good one. It is the closest I’ve come across to a spray-able version of the real thing. In the opening the grapefruit and lemon really fizz and accentuates the fruitiness of juniper berries. It’s pretty linear after that and all the things a good G&T should be; refreshing, tart and aromatic. It makes a great alternative to the standard summer cologne, especially as – despite the name – it’s actually pure parfum strength like the rest of the collection.
Sea Foam
Notes: Bergamot, sea notes, laurels, lemon, incense, eucalyptus, guaiac wood, seaweed, fig leaf, driftwood, patchouli, Haitian vetiver, sea salt and sandalwood.
I really like Art de Parfum’s take on an aquatic fragrance. It doesn’t go down the watery melon or cucumber route but goes for more of an aromatic angle. There’s the zing of citrus to represent the bright sunshine and the saltiness of seaweed to let you know you’re by the ocean. Eucalyptus would normally worry me but here it works really well with the light resinous incense to build the olfactory coastal forest. The fig adds a pleasant green-tinged creaminess and reminds me of Bois Naufrage by Parfumerie Generale.
Sea Foam is much more unusual than your average sun lotion or seaside fragrance. It’s a great combination of marine, lactonic and aromatic.
Sensual Oud
Notes: Cloves, geranium, dates, saffron, rose, suede, patchouli, agarwood (oud) and cypriol oil or nagarmotha.
It’s hard not to be jaded when it comes to trying another oud but this is enjoyable if you’re a rose fan. Rose and oud are a common combination because they work so beautifully together and here the sweet, almost fruity rose is nicely accentuated by fresh geranium. The opening is all about the rose with the oud only filtering through gradually and even then it remains gentle. It has the texture and scent of supple, rosy suede. Sensual Oud is a refined French take on agarwood.
Excentrique Moi
Notes: pepper, cloves, red fruits, lemon, wormwood, guaiac wood, hibiscus, black tea, patchouli, white musk and cedar.
Excentrique Moi lives up to its name. It’s an strange mix of spice, plummy richness and the sour herbal twang of wormwood, which is used to flavour absinthe and vermouth. All of this rests on top of a bed of black tea and patchouli, with the overall effect being quite powdery and opaque. Not for everyone but I guess that’s the idea. If you’re looking for something off-beat and enjoy the bitter scent of absinthe, Excentrique Moi could work for you. The prominent powdered clove note and sourness is too much for me unfortunately.
Signature Wild
Notes: cinnamon, davana, cardamom, orange blossom, dried fruits, radiant woods, labdanum, leather, sandalwood, amber, peru balsam and Haitian vetiver.
Signature Wild will please fans of davana; that boozy, fruity note you either love or, as in my case, don’t. It lends perfumes a feeling of dark, heady opulence. The diva davana is supported by sweet gourmand spices and orange blossom with a soft suede backdrop. This works well because they are all singing form the same exotic, er, hymn sheet. The far drydown is a sweet balsamic amber and the general feel is smooth and a touch powdered. Although it may sound heavy, Signature Wild actually wears incredibly lightly for a sweet, boozy/fruity suede fragrance.
Do you fancy the sound of any of the Art de Parfum fragrances?
A Bottled Rose 
More great mini-reviews! I have tried these five and wasn’t sure about some of them on first testing – the eccentric one was a bit too oddball for me, as you suspect it may be for others. I really liked the Sensual Oud, while Signature Wild was also a surprise hit. And I thought I didn’t care for davana. You have prompted me to get these all out again and have another sniff!
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Ah that’s interesting, V. I would have guessed that you’d like Sea Foam the most. Excentrique Moi is too eccentric for me too but it seems your usual aversion to davana was over-ridden Signature Wild. It’s not that I cant stand the smell, it’s more that the fruity/boozy odour profile isn’t me. It is much lighter than usual in Signature Wild though.
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Here, here, another gin-fan. In fact, I like the scent of it even more than its taste – so I’m really curious about their G/T parfum. I have to find out where this brand is sold.
The other scents don’t seem to be my cup though, due to clove or sea notes or our common dread of Davana…
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Well you can try it in Bloom next time you come to London if it’s not stocked in Vienna. Gin colognes are so much more interesting and fun than the run-of-the-mill variety.
I wonder what you’d make of Sensual Oud.
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Although none cry out to be tried, I will give them a sniff when I come across them. I sniff out of interest more these days rather than with a goal to purchase. Nice reviews. ❤️
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You are absolutely right, Val. It’s interesting and so much fun trying new things – especially if they’re novel – even if you don’t fall in love with anything.
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Hey tara. How new are these? Didn’t even know they happened. LOVE the name Sea Foam and it sounds like a wonderful scent.
I wonder if Australia will get them?
Portia xx
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Hey Portia,
They must have come out in the first quarter of this year as they were at Bloom when Tina was here in May. She was quite taken with Sea Foam as I recall. I think it would appeal to you. Hope they make it Down Under.
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What beautiful reviews Tara. I liked the sound of Excentrique moi, but would be scared of the patch, white musc, cedar combo.
I like gin, but unfortunately I never liked tonic water, so although the perfume sounds, as you say, like a great alternative to a cologne, I’m not sure it would be for me. I might prefer penhaligon’s Juniper Sling 🙂
I wonder how many rose ouds can still be made?
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Thanks, Asali. I reckon if you could deal with the bitter wormwood you’d be fine with the rest of Excentrique Moi.
Juniper Sling wasn’t as refreshing or tart as I had hoped but yes, maybe it would suit you better.
I’m sure there are many rose ouds still to come…
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Hi Tara, I really like the sound of Sea Foam, I imagine it to be like summer holidays down along the Great Ocean Road, particularly with their use of Eucalyptus. Great reviews, thanks!
Tina G xx
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Hi Tina,
As I said to Portia, I distinctly remember you trying Sea Foam at Bloom and you seemed to be intrigued by it. I don’t blame you one bit for not recalling it though, with the amount we sniffed that day 🙂
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Hi Tara, when I saw this article I thought the bottles looked familiar and I did a quick search of my photos from that day, but no pics so I wasn’t 100% sure it crossed my radar then. Good to know my recollection wasn’t too bad! Heh. But I don’t remember what Sea Foam smelt like, I’ll need to revisit when I get the chance. Nice reviews!
xx Tina G
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Recalling what something smells like can be tough the next day, let alone months later!
I’m enjoying wearing your decants and will post about them next week.
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As a GT fan, I’d be curious to try Gin & Tonic Cologne, but other than that – I’m too overwhelmed with new brands, so 5 new perfumes will not be on my “to try” list until I hear from everybody around how much they loved them 😉
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I totally get that Undina. A new brand has to either fall into my lap or I need to hear great things time and again from my mates and even then I usually wait till I happen across them. New brand fatigue 🙂
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