Top notes Aldehydes, Pink Pepper, Angelica and Bergamot; middle notes: Iris and Turkish Rose; base notes Musk, Ambrette, Carrot, Ambergris, Leather, Sandalwood and Amberwood
This perfume came up on my radar when beauty journalist Sali Hughes said it was the fragrance she has worn the most during lockdown. She described it as a musky, iris skin scent which really piqued my interest. I have a gaping hole in my collection where a skin scent should be and one based around iris sounded enticing.
As you may have heard, sales of scented candles have rocketed over the last year and I made my first Diptyque purchase before Christmas, which happily came with a sample of Fleur de Peau.
Released in 2018, it won in the categories Perfume Extraordinaire and Best New Women’s Fragrance at The Fragrance Foundation Awards London.
Rather than a blast of aldehydes as I had prepared – braced – myself for, Fleur de Peau opens with a very lovely iris; the kind that smells like a fresh ream of white paper. It’s crisp and airy, borne on a cloud of clean musks and silky aldehydes which manifest as a soft wash of glistening soap bubbles.
As it settles, powder puffs up and gently covers the perfume in a light dusting accompanied by just the softest blush of rose. The whole effect is romantic, low-key elegant and soothing. It doeesn’t quite stray into boudoir perfume territory, perhaps because it’s just a tad too minimal and subdued for that association.
Iris and ambrette are often paired and this union works once again. I think ambrette is best described as a vegetal, slighty fruity musk – not animalic and not dryer fresh. It adds another nuance to the composition and prevents the white musk from dominating.
The base is when it smells most like skin, in the purest way.
I can certainly see why Sali turned to this fragrance during lockdown. It is a subtle pastel perfume that doesn’t feel out of place worn around the home. I’ve really struggled to spray anything while staying in but this has been effortless to wear. It’s a perfume to relax with: undemanding yet elevated thanks to the iris.
While it is lovely in all its parts, on reflection I think I’m looking for more of a furry musk.
As you would expect, it stays close to the body but longevity is true to its EdP strength.
If you’re not a fan of wispy scents then this won’t be for you. It is not a perfume to set the world alight. On the other hand, if you are in search of a skin scent with an iris twist, it’s a good bet. Just be sure not to try it on paper if you want it to bloom.
Have you been able to wear perfume in lockdown? What have been your go-tos?
Not really. 😔 But I kept up my Shalimar sheet tradition. At least something. I just don’t have the habit of wearing perfume at home, only when I go out and I don’t really go out much.
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Yes, exactly the same here. I don’t have the habit of wearing perfume at home.
It’s great you still have Shalimar on your sheets though.
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I so want to own a Diptyque but nothing has ever had my name on it. I wear perfume every day, pandemic or not. It always lifts me and I feel undressed without it. I usually plan what I am gonna wear the night before, and I love the anticipation! Putting perfume on is the best few seconds of the day! Once a junkie ——-
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That’s a nice routine, to plan it the night before. I don’t get dressed till lunchtime which is probably part of the issue.
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You can put perfume on any time of the day
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True.
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This sounds delightful, and I am a member of the wispy club as you know! My relationship with iris comes and goes, but I think it may be on an upswing. I am a bit erratic in my perfume application atm, but don’t in theory make a distinction between wearing something out or round the house.
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This could be a good iris option for you V. Certainly worth a try when shops reopen.
I seem to have a mental block on wearing perfume when staying home.
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I am totally anosmic to whatever this scent is made of and can’t smell it unfortunately. I don’t mind a skin scent now & then although in general my tastes run to bigger stuff. I continue to wear perfume during lockdown, lots of gourmands for the comfort factor.
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Ah I can see that could be the case with the musk. Too bad.
I wish I liked gourmands at a time like this!
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I have a bottle of Fleur de Eau and it is a perfect scent for the office or occasions where you want you scent to be discreet. I wear perfume every day and also apply fragrance before I go to bed at night.
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Yes I can see it being a good office scent too for when we’re allowed back in. I can see why you bought a bottle. It’s hard to find something both elegant and comfortable.
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Great review. Love this Diptyque.
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Thanks! It has a really nice cool/warm contrast going on.
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Sorry, I bit late here, but skin scents, even the iris ones, are not really for me. I did try Fleur de Peau, back in 2018, but it didn’t leave a lasting impression.
I have a few perfumes I reach for during lock down, and I’ve just recently found a lot of rare vintage samples which I’m enjoying to test, or rather re-test. Lots of them are carnation heavy which makes me think of you. 😊
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a blissful way to spend some of lockdown.
I think I have room for one skin scent but that’s it.
Ah, retesting carnation- heavy vintage samples. What a blissful way to spend some of lockdown.
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Hey Tara,
I didn’t see this post drop.
OOOHHHHH!
Did you ever try the Musk Gold by Ermenegildo Zegna? I’m kicking myself that I didn’t grab a bottle for myself when I bought one on sale for Scotty. It’s a really rich and furry patchouli/caramel musk, so good. I grabbed a couple of large decants from Surrender To Chance but now I’m hoarding dregs.
Portia xx
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Hey Portia
No I haven’t tried Musk Gold but it sounds pretty great. I’m guessing it’s no longer available if you’re hoarding those dregs.
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It does seem to have gone the way of the dodo.
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In general, I’m not a skin scent person, I tend to like louder perfumes. But I liked that Diptyque when I tested it. Not enough to buy, but it was quite nice.
As I mentioned on several occasions before, I didn’t really notice lockdowns, so I kept wearing perfumes daily. It means that I truly wear them for myself, which is interesting since I used to limit my “office wear” perfumes for others’ sake 😉
These days, if my morning starts too early, sometimes I can put perfume on in the evening before going for a walk. So, your lunchtime sounds just perfect for the first perfume application 😉
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Thanks Undina. You make me feel better. I’ve been spritzing vintage Miss Dior Parfum at lunchtime which seems to be working.
Pleased you’re not limited to office friendly perfumes for a change.
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