Notes: Mint, Flesh, Rose, Candyfloss, Seaweed and Benzoin
I know tattoo artist and fragrance aficionado Freddie Albrighton through various meet-ups over the years and his (sadly defunct) perfume blog. I think it’s true to say that he has been drawn to maverick artisan perfumers and that they in turn, have been drawn to him. I imagine they share a similar sensibility. He did the marketing artwork for Vero Kern’s masterwork Rozy and now he has collaborated on a perfume with Antonio Gardoni of Bogue Profumo. How cool is that?
No doubt the project worked in part because they both have a love of novel aromas that not everyone would expect to find in a perfume. I mean, just look at that note list. It made me smile and reminded me of when my then 5 year-old niece said her pretend perfume was made of ‘Lavender, raspberries, rainbows, strawberries and peppermint’. Douleur isn’t child’s play, though it encompasses a similar level of blue-sky thinking.
I’ve seen the opening described a few times as ‘piercing’ and on spraying that is exactly the word. It’s a penetrating combination of everything that is to come but at the highest possible pitch and all at once. It’s as if the contents of the sample which seemed to be pulsating in my bag had been squirming to be set free and once the sprayer is depressed, every note hurtles for freedom.
Once it settles after a couple of minutes, the core of Douleur is revealed as rose oxide which is a material both Freddie and Antonio are fond of. You usually hear it referred to as a metallic rose but while I get that almost camphoric steeliness, my nose reads it more as a rose surrounded by bitter greens. This red bloom wrapped in vines is counterbalanced by wisps of candyfloss and a hint of dried seaweed saltiness.,
Over tume it softens and rounds out considerably as the comforting presence of benzoin in the base comes throigh. The various contrasts knit together and it smells like a ‘proper’, if uncommon, perfume with a mix of hot/cold, hard/soft and bitter/sweet facets.
It does indeed stick to the skin like a tattoo and billows out in waves, ensuring a devastating scent trail.
Antoni says “experiencing odours should be challenging and playful” and that’s exactly what trying Douleur is like. It takes me back to the time when I first got into perfume and inhaling something new was always exciting and interesting, even if it wasn’t to my usual taste.
We can get trapped in our comfort zones. Douleur has come to shake things up.
Do you find yourself only sampling perfumes that are in line with what you know you already like? Would you give Douleur a try?
A Bottled Rose 
This sounds very different and worth a try! Your description is very compelling even though “metallic” usually makes me turn the other way. It also gave me the sense that it will be like riding a roller coaster ride blindfolded 😱.
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Hi Hajusuuri
It’s a wild ride to start with but does settle down and is completely wearable after that. I’m not good with metallic either but somehow it came across more as a sharp-edged green rose. You’d have to see how you find it if you get a chance to sample it.
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Sadly I don’t want to challenge myself! I think I might really dislike some of these notes, but I respect and admire people who push the boundaries. I love what you have written.
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Thanks Jillie. It’s not my style but I love that they’ve created it and admire them for that, like you. I would say don’t take the notes list too literally. I didn’t pick up on anything fleshy or minty, or melon-like for that matter.
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The mention of Douleur’s ‘devastating scent trail’ – and the name itself – were a little unsettling, hehe, but I remain curious about this handbag squirmer of a scent! And I love Freddie, so it has to be done. Amused at your niece’s ingenious perfume creation. 😉
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Hi V,
I was glad I posted about Mia’s imaginary perfume on FB so I could look it up and get it exact.
Freddie is such an outwardly intimidatingly cool guy yet with such a kind and gentle soul. I’m so excited for him and as Val noted in her APJ post, it is the most wearable Bogue despite the startling opening.
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Hey Val,
TRY IT? I’ll probably blind buy a bottle. It sounds freaking amazing.
Portia xx
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Hey Portia,
I think you can pre-order a bottle at a reduced rate before it’s released at the end of the month.
So proud of Freddie!
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Where can I do that Tara?
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It mentions it on the Bogue FB page so I’d contact either Antoni or Freddie directly as it wasn’t on the website last time I looked.
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It sounds amazing to me too. Hopefully Luckyscent will carry it.
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Oh I hope so, Tara C. If they carry the other Bogues I don’t see why not.
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I am looking forward to trying this one. I like all the Bogue scents (although there is one I will never be able to afford). Gardini’s collaboration with Victor Wong of Zoologist Perfumes on Tyrannosaurus Rex was really a good mix and I am sure this new Bogue scent will me too.
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Hi Filomena,
I’d say if you’re already a Bogue fan there’s an excellent chance this will be another winner for you.
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I think you are probably right Tara!
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Fingers crossed!
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I’d certainly love to give it a spin when samples are available. Beautifully evocative review, Tara.
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Thanks very much Francesca!
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Sounds intsresting and i would gladly try it. Although i sometimes get notes of decomposing blood with oxides, so i would not buy it blind…
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Tanja, I do think people can read rose oxide differently so hopefully you can get hold of a sample and see how you find it.
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This sounds completely outside of what I’d wear. But since I rarely refuse to test any perfume when I come across it (there are a few exceptions based on my boycotting some lines for different reasons), I’d try it if I see it. And since I “know” Freddie, I might even make an effort to make it happen.
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Yes, the fact that someone from our little community has actually collaborated on their own fragrance with a highly respected perfumer does make a huge difference. I’m so proud and happy for him.
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