Welcome to the Masquerade Ball…
It might not have met my high expectations but I did enjoy trying Russian Tea by Italian niche brand, Masque Milano. It had an atmospheric mood and an appealing (if fanciful) backstory. I liked it enough to become intrigued by the other releases from the brand.
Below are my impressions of the four other fragrances currently in the line-up.
Tango
Notes of amber, jasmine sambac, Turkish rose, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, tonka bean, benzoin, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar and melilotus.
Opening with a liqueur-like red rose, Tango settles into an incredibly smooth and silky amber. It’s not ground-breaking but it’s seamlessly well done and high quality. There’s a nice sprinkling of spice and just the right amount of vanilla.
Tango could be worth investigating if you’re still seeking a wearable, classy amber fragrance.
Terralba
Notes of clary sage, lemon, green tangerine, myrtle, thyme, curry leaves, everlasting flower, lentisque, juniper, cypress and cedarwood
Terralba was created to invoke the aroma of a Mediterranean shoreline where the scent of coastal shrubbery mixes with sea salt. Unfortunately it reminds me more of the old school fougères which were popular with my father’s generation.
I’m sure I’m doing it a great disservice but I find the association hard to shake. You may have better luck if you are a fan of green, herbal fragrances.
Luci Ed Ombre
Notes of incense, ginger, tuberose, jasmine, moss, cedarwood and patchouli
I really enjoyed testing Luci Ed Ombre because it’s rather novel and the idea behind it is so effectively realised. The wearer is transported to the border of a bright field and a gloomy forest where a sense of foreboding creeps over them.
It’s brought to life using patches of moss, earth, gently indolic flowers and a touch of musty incense (which intensifies in the base).
Luci ed Ombre is the kind of white floral I can get on board with – one shrouded in darkness. My only reservation is that it’s a touch reticent.
Montecristo
Notes of cabreuva, ambrette seeds, rum, tobacco leaves, celery seeds, cistus, benzoin, golden stone, styrax gum, gaiac wood, cedar wood and patchouli
Whoa. An opening of booze and barbecue smoke, that’s got my attention.
Montecristo calms into a distinctive smoky leather with old dry wood and a burnt facet. It’s not as harsh and manly as it sounds. There is some sweet resin in the mix, probably from the styrax, which counterbalances it. Over time, it becomes increasingly sensual.
Interestingly, it features hyraceum (“Golden Stone”) which helps make Papillon Perfumes’ Salome so gloriously carnal. Here it feels more like animal hide than human skin. Montecristo is chic, striking and not a little addictive.
Overall I’ve been impressed by the offerings from Masque Milano. The fragrances tend to have an intimate feel and plenty of character.
I particularly like that the line comes across as very Italian: stylish, sophisticated and sultry, with just a dash of machismo.
Do you own or admire any of the Masque Milano fragrances?
A Bottled Rose 
Hi Tara,
Whoa – Montecristo sounds intense! Thanks for the run down on these, I’ve not tried any of the ones you’ve listed. I do like Russian Tea, it is on my FB list but I’ve not picked it up yet. Sounds like MM is pretty classy & well balanced all up, I should make the effort to sample & get to know them a bit better.
Thanks
Tina G
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Hi Tina,
Montecristo is intense to start with but settles down really nicely. Do give it a try if you find the range in Sydney.
Oh how interesting to read Russian Tea is on your FB list. Iris Cendre (by the same perfumer) is on mine but I’m trying to resist as it’s based on a tiny sample. Do you like it?
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Oh, I picked up a sample of Iris Cendre just recently – I’ll make it my SOTD and let you know. xx
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Fantastic! No pressure, but if you like it, I’m buying 🙂
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I liked the fragrance very much, but there was a ‘hairspray’ note in the dry down which didn’t agree with me. It was well in to it though, 8 hours. So maybe not a purchase but has opened up her fragrance line & put it on my radar. Thanks Tara.
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You know Tina, I couldn’t put my finger on it but I think it may be the same note that’s holding me back from a purchase too. It’s a weird one. I love everything else about it though so I’m still torn. Thanks very much for getting back to me.
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I really need to try this line. They all sound gorgeous . Which one is your favourite, Tara?
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Oh, good question, Yukiko. None of them made me want to go for a decant/bottle but the two that came the closest are Russian Tea and Montecristo.
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Oh my – off to find Tango now! Beautiful reviews as always.
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Lovely to see you, Alex.
Yes, Tango is absolutely your thing. Not sure if the line is available in London though.
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Tango and Luci Ed Ombre sound like the ones that I might care for out of these four – definitely not the other two! I probably have enough wearable ambers, but am still open to more… And like you, I am drawn to white florals with a sultry or darker twist. Really enjoyed your mini-reviews – so easy to imagine what each scent is like from your mellifluous prose!
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Oh V, that was good of you to bother to read and comment in the midst of your hellish work project. I didn’t expect you to.
Luci Ed Ombre is ultimately a bit too weird for me and possibly you too, but I think you might really like Tango.
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Addictive ah? I haven’t tried this line either, but Montecristo and Russian Tea do sound very interesting and are on the radar, now thanks to you even more so.
I do like Italian style perfumery, it’s not beating around the bush, and when it’s decadent it’s wonderfully OTT.
I lost my sample of Iris Cendre and am hitting myself for it, although by the sound of your comment, perhaps I should be grateful? 😉
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Yes, I never thought about it like that but you’re right. Maybe that’s what I’m interpreting as machismo.
Oh I wish you still had the sample of Iris Cendre so you could tell me your thoughts! I keep sniffing my empty vial.
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Iris Cendre smelled like a faintly smoky version of Iris Silver Mist. If I didn’t already have a ton of ISM I would have bought it.
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Thanks, Tara C. I’m so close to buying a bottle, you’ve just about pushed me over the edge 🙂
Off to see if I can get it in London.
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I like Russian Tea, a lot (am a proud owner of a FB) – but I wasn’t intrigued by the rest of the brand.
It’s a pity Terralba turned out a disappointment, the notes sound rather nice.
BTW, I’m a very happy owner of a decant of Lancome’s Cuir 😀 – thank to one generous lovely Armadillo…
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Ah, isn’t our CQ the best? Hope you enjoy it.
I remember you falling for Russian Tea. You know, Terralba may work for you. You rock masculine-leaning frags really well.
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Our Cookie is a gem ! As of things Cuir : I need to wait the first 15 minutes – but then, then I cannot stop sniffing my wrist…
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Too bad it’s not love from the start for you but happy it’s addictive after that.
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As you probably remember, I had difficulties with the story for Russian Tea. The second sample I bought at the same time was Tango. I liked it when I tried it but for the first couple of times I was extremely bothered because it strongly reminded me of some other perfume – and I couldn’t pinpoint which. If I don’t write about it soon, I’ll tell you in letter what it was 🙂
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I hate it when that happens, it’s so frustrating and can drive you crazy till you work out what it was. I wonder if it was Dior’s Ambre Nuit.
Look forward to finding out.
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